What can I say? Another holiday in Italy has come to an end. I've been there so many times I can hardly count them all. Each experience brings new experiences and new treasures. My favourite country never fails to impress or to entertain. As for Naples itself, I regard Italy's third largest city as a gem. Those who go and describe it as a 'shithole' are missing an awful lot - both visual and atmospheric.
My holiday began on a sad note. Only a few hours before departure my friend, Richard, rang me from the local hospital. He had been admitted with a collapsed lung. I hurried over to see how he was doing. Obviously he was unable to fly. However, we both agreed that, after losing Michael in such tragic circumstances, I was very much in need of a holiday. In any event, knowing Italy so well, travelling around the country on my own would present no worrying issues. Richard is STILL in hospital. His pneumothorax did not heal of its own accord and he is due to go into theatre later on this week.
Determined to enjoy myself (which I did), I resolved to see as many places as possible. My destinations included Naples, Sorrento, Rome, Cumae, Paestum, Foggia, Cosenza, Bari, Biano, Montecassino, Anzio and the Cilento peninsula. Public transport in Italy is very cheap. A day return on the Intercity from Naples to Consenza was €21. An equivalent journey on our laughable excuse for a rail system would be around £80. The Italian people were wonderful as always. It's like a country full of Teletubbies: Teletubbies who transform into complete psychos once they get behind the wheel of a car.
Rome was amazing!! You don't have to be a Catholic to appreciate the wonderment of the place. It is literally an historian's paradise. Officially there is more to see in Rome than any other city in the world. The only thing that really annoyed me about Rome since my last visit there three years ago was the new influx/swarm of Asians around Vatican Square selling plastic Popes, miniature models of St Peter's and icons of Jesus that could cry false tears and wink at you, etc. It was clear from their dress that most of these guys weren't even Christians. Never mind cartoons of Prophet Mohammed, this was stooping into the moral gutter from Profit Mohammed. There is clearly no level of entrepreneurial tackiness to which Asians will not stoop in order to make a quick buck. As I walked away from the Vatican on the Via Della Conciliazione I remember thinking to myself: 'That lot would sell their mother's afterbirth if they thought there was money to be made.' A disgusting spectacle!
Though I spent most of the time on my own I did team-up with other travellers on occasions. Particular thanks go to John and June Stokes from Wollongong, New South Wales. I met them on the Corso Mazzini in Consenza. As a newly-retired couple, they were backpacking around Greece and Italy together. John was a ex-coal miner with 31 years experience under his belt; June used to work with the disabled. They were great company with oodles of that inimitable Aussie wit. I travelled with them from Consenza to Salerno. John in particular was very politically-minded - with opinions on most issues that certainly would not look out of place on ATW. On the train from Naples to Rome I met up with two twenty-something Americans - Mike and Brian from Bayonne, New Jersey. Mike was a mature student and Brian worked for the New York City Transit Authority as a Purchasing Manager. Both committed Anglophiles, Brian in particular told me how clean and friendly London was. A statement which compelled me to reply: 'Are we talking about the same London, here?'
British news was never far from my mind. Apart from Tracey Temple bouncing up and down on a human trampoline we also saw the fiasco over 1,000 foreign criminals let loose by the vagaries of our judicial system. On Friday, whilst walking around the chaos that is Naples, I suddenly remembered that back in Northern Ireland the moral degenerates would be worshipping at the MOPE shrine of Bobby Sands on the 25th anniversary of his joyous demise. I had visions of freshly-painted murals of this thuggish, sectarian, terroristic pustule with an effeminate hair-do adorning the avenues and alleyways (littered with fragments of knee-cap) of every Shinner Ambrosia in Ulster. As a fitting tribute to his memory I ventured to one of my favourite Neapolitan restaurants - Da Peppino Avellinese (highly recommended). There I had a sumptuous feast of tomato and mozzarella salad; penne pasta with ham, aubergines, peppers, mushrooms and spicy tomato sauce; and a dessert of crushed pineapple with pistachio ice cream. With each gargantuan mouthful I kept thinking of Sands; hoping and praying the fires of hell weren't too cold.
Suddenly I had this urge to visit an Internet cafe across the street. For only the second time in my life I wanted to see what treacly sentiments Chris Gaskin had written about Sands on his inestimable obscenity that is Balrog. I was amazed as the tales of how half the world's population seemingly marched in goose-step at news of his passing. Most interesting was Mr Gaskin's quote on Italian reaction: 'Five thousand protestors burned the Union Jack (sic) in Milan.' Never wanting to miss an opportunity to expose the lies of republicans for what they are, I went along to the Biblioteca Nazionale di Napoli on the Piazza del Plebiscito. There I enlisted the help of a young guy, Valerio, with an excellent grasp of English and I asked him to help me look through the Italian newspaper archives of that time (microfiche is still popular in Italy). Do you know how much space was given to this supposed throng of 5,000? None!! There were small pieces about a few hundred anarchists who had marched in support of Sands to the British Consulate in Milan. A few hundred nutcases in a city of almost three million people. Speaks volumes. The lies of Irish nationalism meet reality head-on.
It was then I eventually realised just how hollow the whole propaganda exercise of worldwide solidarity with the aims of the Provos really is. They like to con and kid us about how oppressed people across the globe rally to the clarion calls of the IRA 'struggle'. The truth is that the cause of Irish republicanism remains the choice of a minuscule number of extremists in certain countries. There were no Irish tricolours fluttering around Naples to commemorate the 25th anniversary. In fact, the only Irish flag I saw during the entire holiday fluttered limply - a metaphor for the importance of the Irish State on the world stage - from a pole outside the Continental Hotel in Sorrento. In spite of what the likes of Balrog like to pretend, the childish protestations of republican victimhood are unknown to the great majority that actually matters. In other words, the rest of the world couldn't give a toss!!
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